With a new house, 3 kids and a sneaker head husband…there are shoes, slippers and book bags everywhere. So I began to search online for the perfect entryway bench/shoe rack and found many beautiful but expensive things.
I was still finishing my table console and to be honest didn’t want the pressure of starting another build before finishing my first one.
So…I blame this project on Home Depot, lol. As I was in there for onething I saw a pile of discounted wood and couldn’t help but to scavenger through it. Once I got it home I went through the pieces and thought to myself…they would make a great entryway shoe rack. So I got to working on drawing my draft and determined my measurements.
Now if you knew my math grade in high school you would be surprised to see me doing some of these calculations and measurements… I have definitely come a long way. As you view some of the build you will also see how I still have a way to go with measuring, as I had to use my planner and sander to adjust the height of the inside pieces.
Check the process out for my Entryway shoe rack bench below.
Tools used:
Drill
Miter Saw (circular saw can be used)
Jig Saw or table saw (circular saw can be used)
Sander
Pocket hole Kreg Jig
1 ½” pocket screws
2” pocket screws
Wood glue
Measuring tape
Wood filler
Wood chisel/rasp/file
Step 1: Sketch and determine measurements
Because the wood I got was from different scrap pieces I got creative with my design but I know I wanted to have a thicker wood as the top. Typically I would have made it come over the sides but because it had some imperfections I felt placing it on top of the center pieces but inside the two putter pieces was a better decision.
I also wanted to incorporate a cross halved joint (which you will see in future projects) so I had to plan where my cuts for that will go.
Step 2: Cut and prep wood
Lumber
1- 2” x 12” x 8’
2- 1” x 12” x 8’
Cuts: I used my miter saw to make these cuts but a circular saw can be used.
Top: 1- 2” x 12” cut to 46.5” (3’10.5”)
Middle columns: 2- 1” x 12” cut to 16.75”
Bottom & Middle shelves: 2- 1” x 12” cut to 46.5” (3’10.5”)
Sides: 2- 1” x 12” cut to 19”
Sand wood down to rid imperfections, stamp marks, etc.
Step 3: Create cross half joints
Unfortunately…I forgot to record me cutting my cross halved joints but luckily enough I remember what I did.
You will need the middle shelf and both middle column pieces.
Find the horizontal midway point On the middle shelf. Keep in mind the actual dimensions of the 1” x 12” is ¾” x 11 ¼”. Therefore the midway point would be 5 ⅝” and not 6 inches.
On the middle shelf measure 15” down on each end. I used a scrap piece of the ¾” thick wood and placed it at the 15” mark. Then I drew a line on the other side. When done I had the proper thickness of what my cuts needed to be and just measured 15 inches between each middle end point.
On the middle columns measure down 8 inches on each side. The middle remaining portion should be ¾” which is equal to the width of the board that it will be cross jointed over.
Then use your table saw to make several cuts in the ¾” sections of all three pieces or use your jig saw to cut the 3/4 section out. Then use a chisel to remove the waste wood. Then smooth out the ¾” nook with chisel, rasp and/or file. If you don’t have a table saw then your circular saw should be able to do the trick.
Step 4: Pocket hole joints
You will need to create pocket holes in the corners of the following pieces:
Top 2” x 12” piece
Both middle & bottom shelf
Step 5: Bottom and side joints
Glue & connect the bottom and side joints using pocket screws. Make sure your pocket holes are facing down.
Step 6: Join center to bottom and sides
Glue & connect center columns. I used a nail gun to connect the middle pieces from the bottom.
*Disclaimer* I did put pocket holes on the two middle columns but because I put the middle shelf in already I didn’t have enough room to drill the pocket holes.
It would have been better for me to mark where my bottom pieces met perpendicular to each other. Then remove the middle shelf, line up my middle columns and drive my pocket screws.
I would have put in middle shelf last by sliding it through after my other pieces were secured in place.
Step 7: Place and join top to center and sides.
Glue and connect using 2” pocket screws. The top is bigger so longer screws are needed. You may want to turn it upside down to get to your pocket holes.
Step 8: Use wood filler to cover and gaps in wood and nail holes.
I took about ½ cup of timbermate wood filler and mixed it with a tsp of water. This smoothed it out and made it easy to apply. I then applied it to the gaps, nail holes and allowed to fully dry. When dry I sanded everything down.
Step 9: Stain
I used rustoleum Varathane stain + poly in shades Provincial and Carbon Gray. I applied provincial first, allowed it to dry and then applied the Carbon Gray helped to darken it enough.
I need to work on my application techniques but eve is a learning process.
Step 10: Placement
Once completely dry I was able to bring inside and place right under my front window near my entryway.
Hope you are able to create your own version of this fun and crafty build.
Checkout the video tutorial below.
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